Twenty years ago, the Annapurna Circuit was often called the world’s greatest trek. Today, some argue it’s been ruined by road construction. The reality, as always, is more nuanced.
What’s Changed
Roads have been built along sections of the lower route — particularly between Besisahar and Chame. These sections, once walked over three or four days, can now be driven in a few hours. Many teahouses that once served only trekkers now serve truck drivers. The mood is different.
What Hasn’t Changed
Above Manang, almost nothing has changed. The high route from Manang to the Thorong La is still spectacular, still demanding, and still one of the great trekking experiences on earth. The descent to Muktinath is still breathtaking. Lo Manthang and the Mustang section are still remote and extraordinary.
Our Recommendation
Take the jeep from Besisahar to Chame (or even Pisang) and start walking from there. You lose nothing of value and gain the high route at its best. The total trekking days drop from 18 to around 14, but every single one of those 14 days is excellent.
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